Dust Free Hardwood Refinishing
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Uploaded on Oct 27, 2011
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In this video Tim is using a Lagler Hummel to drum sand the floor, equipped with an Oneida Vac cyclone dust pre separator with HEPA filter. The sander and separator are connected to a Blastrac 1219 HEPA vac placed outside the home by a main 2″ and 1.5″ vacuum hose. The combination of this hardware creates an extremely high quality sanding job with hardly any dust whatsoever.
After the 8″ hummel belt sander has been used to sand the bulk of the floor, Tim will either use our Clarke Super 7R or Lagler Unico Edger to sand the edges starting with 36 grit up to 120 grit sandpaper.
To feather out the edger cut marks into the belt sander area, Tim will use a 6″ Rigid Random Orbit Sander with 80 and 100 grit sandpaper, which also is attached to this same vacuum system.
The corners will then be sanded by hand, and then the whole floor sanded again with a Cherry Hill Upright 4-pad random orbit sander with 120 grit sandpaper to eliminate any possible chatter marks left by the hummel.
Depending on the degree to which the customer wants the stain to soak in to the wood, Tim may sand the floor a final time with a Clarke square floor buffer with either 120 or 150 grit sandpaper to close the grain of the floor up a little more. The finishing process will be shown under another one of our videos!
Where should I start when updating/remodeling my home?
2)Sand and clean up floors
3)Put down protection on the floors, so we can do other work
4)Remove paneling on walls, paint (there is drywall underneath)
5)Finally, seal the floorsI thought if we left the paneling on the walls while we sanded it would minimize some cleaning issues.
Also, can you rent a dustless floor sander? Are they much more costly than the regular drum or orbital sanders?Any suggestions on how we should go about doing this?
Best AnswerAsker’s Choice
Sorry, but there is no such thing as “dustless” floor sanding. The vacuum attachments reduce but don’t eliminate the dust. The sanding area is just too large with the drum and you can’t create a perfect seal against the sanded area to channel all the dust into the vac.Your plan is backwards — I’ll explain why:Having done a lot of old home renovation I would recommend strongly working from the top down. Tear out the panelling first, plus any baseboard — you will no doubt have to do some patching and sanding, then priming and painting. Old carpeting makes a great “sponge” for all that dust, drips and crud so leave it in place for now and you can haul the whole disgusting mess out later on.Once the walls and any ceiling patching and painting are done, then move on to demo-ing the existing floor coverings. When I sanded the floors in my last (100 year old) house, I rented the best drum sander I could find and hired a guy to help me who had some experience with it. I found it best to do one room at a time, with plastic draped and taped over the doorways to corrall the dust as much as possible. I also got a fine paper pleated filter for my shop vac and left it running in the room while I sanded (I hung the hose from a wire attached to a doorknob — it seemed to help pull some of the crud out of the air.) Vaccuum the sanded floors several times after you are done and buy PLENTY of tack rags – I attached tack rags to one of those “Swiffer” mops to pick up as much stray dust as possible. Be sure to dust down the walls with it too — a lot of sanded grit sticks to them.
Once the floors are finished, paint all your new or old baseboards and quarter round out in the garage, using one of those 4″ fine-grained foam rollers for a nice finish. Then install the trim and you’re done!
Hsve remodelled 5 old houses and learned a lot from an ex-boyfriend who was a professional remodelling contractor.